The seagulls following the wake of a boat in search of the best feast. A sheet hanging over a Cantabrian Sea with waters as sharp as they are legendary, red tiles sprouting from the dreamy green of the coast, and so many colors on those facades that seem to compete with each other to be the first to reach the sea. Yes, thinking of “colors” and the “northern coast of Spain” conjures up the postcard image of Cudillero (Cuideiru, in Asturian), an iconic fishing village on the coast of Asturias where old stories and traditions still whisper among the narrow streets.
Conceived as an amphitheater-shaped village in the 13th century, Cudillero was painted by its fishermen, who used the same color as their boats to paint the facades. Despite the Viking fleet heading towards Galicia that was sighted in the year 844, the Norman origin of Cudillero remains a mystery that coexists alongside many others guarded by the pixuetos, or the inhabitants of this town who have been in conversation with the sea since time immemorial.
The amphitheater of the Cantabrian Sea
Fishermen's guild and taverns at the port of Cudillero.
There are places in the world where, rather than following a list of places to visit, it is best to let yourself be carried away by that inner traveler ready to succumb to all the serendipities of the evening. Cudillero is one of them. An Asturian oasis whose colors sprout on the coast to pull you between streets that smell of fish, summer terraces with wet floors, a long walk around the port, and the local customs that sigh in the form of colors, balls of nets, and laundry hanging out to dry.
After a long time searching for parking, especially during the summer months, the first encounter with Cudillero usually takes place through a peaceful stroll around the port, admiring all those small details that breathe life and salt into the experience: the typical fishing boats stranded on the shore; the restaurants offering dishes like parrochas or cabracho cake; the overcast sky revealing a timid ray of sun; the beautiful fish market building, and the sound of seagulls that will resonate in future memories.
Teixeiras conch house is a unique dwelling covered in shells, a distinctive place in the area
We reached the amphitheater and Marina square, where we felt like a part of the coast plunges into the Cantabrian Sea to hide its secrets of sirens and old buccaneers. Not far from here stands the church of San Pedro, a 16th-century building known for its ornamentation and Gothic style. In the distance, someone scours the rocks looking for percebes, a waiter pours cider from above, and the stairs invite you to reach the Baluarte viewpoint, located just behind the church and ideal for capturing the best views of the colorful houses.
Once you continue your walk, you will come across unique spots such as the Caracolas de Teixeiras, a house covered with seashells, homes whose doorways display hanging curadillos, a fish that is only prepared here; the final conversations about the L'Almuravela festival - celebrated at the end of June - and places that encourage you to leave behind Cudillero to delve into new coastal treasures.
Cudillero Lighthouse
One of them is the Humilladero chapel, the oldest building in the town and a place of faith for the ancient fishermen. Moreover, not far away, we find the Cudillero lighthouse, a lantern perched on a beautiful promontory, almost hanging over the sea.
The viewpoints also form an essential part of the town's identity, as confirmed by the sequence formed by the Pico viewpoint, Cimadevilla street, or La Atalaya, perfect corners from which to obtain different perspectives.
Aerial view of Cudillero from one of its viewpoints
Only then do we seem to see an ancient Viking fleet in the distance. The horizon sings a song, colors seem to overflow, and the sound of the Cantabrian Sea reaches deep within us. It is the promise of this village, trapped at the foot of the mountain, that seems to converse with a sea where its roots sprouted centuries ago.
Where to eat
Bar Casa Julio
When it comes to gastronomy, many paths in Cudillero lead to Bar Casa Julio, a true emblem of the pixueta village. The quality and hospitality of this local icon are inseparable from their spicy mussels, scallops, marinated anchovies, and cider as the common thread, of course. Just a few bites from a menu rich in seafood, fish, and tapas to be enjoyed at very affordable prices in a privileged setting. In addition to its terrace overlooking the picturesque Marina square, the restaurant also offers highchairs, a good option if you are travelling with little ones.