The seductive Caminito del Rey proves to be exciting long before you start it. The winding access road leads to the beautiful turquoise blue Conde de Guadalhorce reservoir, presided over by the house of the engineer Rafael Benjumea. Between the municipalities of Ardales, Antequera, and Álora, in the province of Málaga, one of the most unusual geological phenomena in the south of the Iberian Peninsula is revealed, the Natural Site of the Gaitanes Gorge.
This natural area, spanning over two thousand hectares, conceals a geological treasure trove filled with flora and fauna of incalculable ecological value. Millions of years ago, these magnificent summits were at the bottom of the sea, eventually rising to their current height and forming the Betic System. Thus, the force of nature has transformed the marine cliffs into the breathtaking river canyons that the Caminito del Rey winds through.
The Caminito del Rey is an exciting experience undertaken by sailors vaccinated against vertigo
Way to work
From the Conde de Guadalhorce swamp, the starting point for the route is the El Kiosko restaurant. To the left, the tunnel carved into the rock opens up, which is the starting point of the walk that leads to the entrance of the current Caminito del Rey.
The wooded path that must be traveled until you arrive is dotted with ash trees, willows, pines, and the civil engineering work, visionary and ahead of its time, that produced the first electricity in Andalucia. Along this peaceful walk, you reach the entrance checkpoint of the Caminito del Rey, where they provide the safety helmet that must be worn at all times during the journey.
This prodigy, now rehabilitated, was built so that the workers could access the canal gates
The journey begins next to the building that houses the electrical transformers, and a little further ahead is the old dam and power plant of Gaitanejo, built by the engineer Benjumea and admired by King Alfonso XIII.
From here, the mountains start to close in until they become a cleft where the magic of the exhilarating path begins. This wonder, now rehabilitated, was initially built for workers to access the canal gates and represents the last stretch of the three paths that this road has had throughout its history.
El Caminito can be considered one of the most beautiful routes in the world
The original footbridge was built in 1901 with simple wooden planks attached to the rock as the only passage for workers to quickly access the interior of the canyons and begin construction of the canal that would cross the entire gorge. A flood destroyed the lightweight structure, leading to the construction of a second footbridge parallel to the first one, but at a higher altitude.
At this second step, something safer than the first, they were popularly called The Balconies. They were erected by sailors from Cadiz and Malaga who were experts in working on the masts of sailing ships, embedding railway tracks into the rock to support a brick and cement vault. And it was this second path that Alfonso XIII traveled in 1921 during his official trip to place the final stone of the hydraulic works of El Chorro, turning it into a legendary route. Since then, it began to be called El Caminito del Rey, even though the monarch only traveled a very short section, and it became part of the daily life of the town of El Chorro and its surroundings.
The second service route with cement cantilevers was known as “los Balconcillos” (the little balconies)
Despite its danger, children used to transit through it to go to school, as well as entire families seeking to cut through this mountain pass on their journeys between the surrounding villages.
The show is starting
Today, the ambitious and spectacular recovery of this centenary trail offers a privileged place to enjoy an unbeatable show and a unique industrial archaeology. The titanic recovery work has been awarded at the European Union Prizes for Cultural Heritage Europa Nostra for the magnificent engineering work to solve the gradual deterioration since its construction. And also, for the innovative construction system that has left part of the original path intact within a truly impressive landscape.
It is impossible to match the beauty and emotion of the Caminito del Rey.
With the sound of the Guadalhorce River, the spectacle of canyons, ravines, cliffs, and vertical rock walls begins, where golden eagles and griffon vultures soar overhead. Ahead lies a three-kilometer path along the world's most dangerous trail.
The Gaitanejos, the first canyon
The first canyon on the route, Los Gaitanejos, is the narrowest of all, with impressive mountain walls separated by less than five meters in some points.
In the indescribable views of the last stretch, you have to take a deep breath
In Los Gaitanejos, the lower parts of the narrow and winding gorges are a spectacle for the ears, the eyes, and balance. Here you will find the so-called “chocolate stairs,” and descending them you can get a close look at the lake and a small cavity where a salmon spine used as a needle by Neolithic hunters was found.
At the end of this first canyon, under its walkways, you can see the remains of the first metal structure used in the construction of the canal and the railway line that, since August 1865, allowed Malaga to break free from its mountainous enclosure. You can also see the impressive little bridge that originally connected the railway and the walkway, serving as a material unloading point. It was here that King Alfonso XIII concluded his royal visit to the Caminito del Rey, which he did not fully complete as it started to rain.
The iconic suspension bridge, designed by Luis Machuca, has received several awards
The Hoyo Valley, an enchanted valley between dizzying heights
Exiting the first canyon, a circus of mountains emerges, embracing a valley that seems enchanted. This majestic central space of the gorge runs parallel to the ancient channels. And undoubtedly, it is the ideal place to rest and have a snack. Following the path, one encounters the ruins of the Casa del Hoyo, inhabited long before the works on the King's Little Path began, where medieval ceramics were found, apparently from the 13th century, indicating the existence of a previous construction.
The Glass Balcony and the Bridge over the Sky
The final stretch is magical, striking, and overwhelming. Over a hundred meters above the river level, the path winds along the canyon walls, providing an astonishing landscape.
The steel suspension bridge was assembled by mountaineers with the pieces that a helicopter supplied to them from the air
One of the highlights of this section is the glass balcony that protrudes from the footbridge, which is definitely not suitable for the faint-hearted as its glass base hovers over the void. Further on, you can see a fossil of ammonites that demonstrates the marine origin of these mountains, which millions of years ago were real Jurassic beaches.
Heroes of the Heights
Three years of design and one of construction.
If 114 years ago it was sailors from Malaga and Cadiz who set up a primitive wooden walkway hanging from the gorge, today R&D has been present with the use of drones and laser point to be able to measure distances with absolute precision. For the construction of the new Caminito del Rey, 15,000 wooden planks have been used, along with 1,500 meters of braided stainless steel mesh and a team of 12 climbers, around 20 laborers, R&D technicians, and a helicopter pilot.
And following the catwalk, you reach the iconic and vertiginous testimony of what the narrow and deep ancient catwalk was. Here, two very close tunnels intermingle, with gigantic layers standing upright through the force of nature and the grand canyon, an impressive sight. At this point, the other highlight of El Caminito del Rey emerges, the ancient aqueduct bridge. It is a platform suspended over 100 meters above the river that has been used since 1904 to carry water from one spring to another. Parallel to this ancient construction, the new steel suspension bridge shines, with over 34 meters of depth, filling the stomach with butterflies just at the thought of crossing it.
The glass balcony almost looks unreal and is not suitable for people with heart conditions
Between vertigo and swaying, the grid of the suspension bridge showcases the abyss beneath our feet, becoming a magical moment accompanied by the sound of falling water, the gliding of vultures, the sway of the bridge, the infinite void, and the grandeur of mankind in undertaking this sensational construction that soars over nothingness. It is a remarkable feat as this steel suspension bridge was assembled by climbers with pieces delivered by a helicopter from above.
And once the adrenaline and excitement of crossing the suspension bridge are overcome, you reach the last stretch of walkways from where you can appreciate the mountains of the Mesas de Villaverde, which preserve archaeological remains of Bobastro, the city of the rebellious Christians who faced the emirs of Córdoba.
The iconic suspension bridge, designed by Luis Machuca, has received several awards
The Caminito del Rey ends at the railway line, which is crossed by steep stairs, and after its challenging ascent, one reaches solid ground. A gentle and pleasant walk takes us to the exit checkpoint in Álora, facing the calm waters of the El Chorro reservoir. The magical sensation of having walked in the sky is left behind.
Travel recommendations
And also...
Wear comfortable clothes and closed sports shoes, carry water and some food in a backpack. It is essential to have a camera and binoculars. Tripods are prohibited. The route goes through the Natural Spot of Desfiladero de los Gaitanes and follows a route of almost eight kilometers, with five access points and three footbridges, in a linear route that takes about five hours to complete, including the time it takes to reach the starting and ending points from the main entrances. It is advisable to plan the visit in advance and make reservations beforehand. Children under eight years old are not allowed to walk the route, and it is not recommended for those who are not in good physical condition or suffer from vertigo. It is essential to have the guidance of Pedro Cantalejo, a historian specialized in prehistory.
WHERE TO STAY
In Ardales:
- Ardales Apartments.
- Hotel La Posada del Conde. Located in front of the reservoir, this charming establishment offers bicycle rentals.
In El Chorro:
- La Garganta Rural Tourist Complex, a former flour factory from 1827 with a pool.
In Antequera:
- Parador de Antequera, located about 20 kilometers from the entrance of the Caminito.
WHERE TO EAT
In Ardales:
- El Mirador, next to the information point with a terrace overlooking the reservoir. They offer Serrano cured meats, fresh fish, and traditional Malaga gazpacho.
- El Kiosko. Located in front of the Casa del Conde, by the reservoir shore, a few meters from the northern entrance to the Caminito. They serve regional cuisine and Malaga wines.
In El Chorro:
- La Garganta. Known for their migas, porra antequerana, and grilled meats.
HOW TO GET THERE
Malaga is well connected by train, plane, and highway. Ardales is located 45 minutes away from Málaga via the A-357. After passing the town, you need to continue on the reservoir road.